How To Repair Hole In Foam Sheathing

Nov 27, 2001

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• #ane

First of all, this might win an honor for the virtually generic championship always.

When I was removing the drywall, I noticed that a department of the moisture barrier had some fairly large holes and some parts were showing signs of harm. The problem is that I can't actually search for how to gear up this stuff, because I have no idea what information technology'due south called.

Here'south a moving-picture show of it.

Directly backside that stuff is the brick siding for my business firm. I had a friend recommend just using expanding foam and sanding information technology down, only I'm not certain if that's the recommended mode.

Feb 26, 2005

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Aug xi, 2001

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• #3

Looks like it's just "sheathing board", put on before brick or siding. Since it's nailed on from the outside earlier the brick was laid, it'southward a chip of a pain to have off and supercede now. I am non a contractor, practice non know code in your expanse.

The correct style to ready this is take downward a portion of the exterior wall, brick in your case, remove the sheathing from the outside and put more on then build the brick back up again.

The wrong way, but perchance not too bad in your case since I assume you're only talking most that i little section pictured, is to mark where the edge of the studs striking on the sheathing board, and then pull the two studs on the section you want to supervene upon. Cut out damaged sheathing so that you accept both the old and new with some area against the stud to nail it on.

Measure and cutting the new sheathing to size, and if its that wood cobweb type, or at to the lowest degree on the existing wood sheathing'south new cut, use a sealant to waterproof it. Nail the new capsule to the studs while out of the wall, then put the assembly back upwards and blast it in.

Jun nineteen, 2000

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• #four

As herm0016 said, patch it with celotex. Do it from the inside. I would cut away the flared in portions with a utility knife so you have a flat surface to work with. Cut patches oversize and secure with construction adhesive and a few screws to hold them until the adhesive cures. Or, after cutting abroad the flared in portions, cut a piece the size of the unabridged void betwixt those studs or a piece that covers all iii of the damaged areas and secure it with agglutinative and a few screws. The insulation will be compressed a scrap more than it should but it volition exist fine.

That could be damage that occurred during construction but information technology more than likely was malicious damage from kids. The contractor chose to just leave it be because he knew it would be covered upwards.

• #v

It is a fiber sail. Supersede it with the new i.

Nov 27, 2001

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• #6

I'yard pretty sure I saw a big sail of it at Home Depot the other day in their seventy% off disbelieve pile. It was probably damaged, but I don't need a full sheet anyway.

In regards to methods to fix it, a friend of mine suggested using expanding cream so sanding it down. Does that sound like a bad idea? I've also got some 2" foam board that I'g going to exist using in a few areas of the wall (along with 1/2" to attain the recommended R13 value). Instead of putting more than of the fiberboard upwardly, would it as well work if I used foam board (with its adhesive) to create a seal?

To note, you can see the holes in the photograph, but I saw a few spots where in that location are some tears. Would information technology be best to just put some duct tape (I have bodily aluminum duct record) to ensure these tears don't go holes?

Aug x, 2005

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• #seven

You lot dont want expanding cream as you lot need to maintain your air gap between the brick and the fiberboard.

If information technology was me, I would but selection upwards a canvass of the same material to brand a patch. Cutting it to fit betwixt the studs and utilize an agglutinative to adhere it. Maybe seam tape the edges, but that seems overkill.
If yous wanted to get overboard, you could remove a square/rectangle shape of the existing fiberboard and make a stepped patch. Think large square every bit wide every bit the studs with a smaller square adhered to information technology to fit the cutout you lot fabricated. Employ adhesive to attach.

Jun 19, 2000

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• #8

As has been said, do non employ foam. Delight quit request about information technology and ignore that advice from your friend.

If yous can use rigid cream in a configuration that would equal the insulation value of batt insulation I would get with that. Any adhesive, regardless of whether your patch is celotex or with foam board I would run vertically. Water should never penetrate the infinite between the brick and the existing celotex just if were to do so and enter into the wall cavity, running the adhesive vertically volition allow it to drain instead of pool on a horizontal bead of adhesive.

And trim off or smush back the blown inward portions and then that whatever you use can lay flat.

Nov 27, 2001

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• #9

If it was me, I would but choice up a sheet of the same textile to brand a patch. Cut information technology to fit between the studs and employ an adhesive to attach it. Possibly seam record the edges, simply that seems overkill.

To make sure that I'm understanding this correctly, I would cut a square/rectangle that encompasses the damaged area, and then cut out a piece from the new sheet that matches the size/shape. But how exactly do you lot adhere it? Practise you glue around the edges?

If y'all tin use rigid foam in a configuration that would equal the insulation value of batt insulation I would go with that. Any agglutinative, regardless of whether your patch is celotex or with cream board I would run vertically. H2o should never penetrate the space between the brick and the existing celotex simply if were to do so and enter into the wall cavity, running the adhesive vertically volition allow it to bleed instead of puddle on a horizontal bead of adhesive.

If I were to just put the 2.5" of cream in there (two carve up sheets, two" + .five"), would I merely cut away the holes or leave them as they are? And to make sure, that would suffice as a seal? I was most likely going to put cream in that cavity anyway or I considered doing only the 2" + half a batt.

Jun 19, 2000

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• #x

If I were to only put the 2.5" of cream in there (two split up sheets, 2" + .5"), would I simply cut away the holes or get out them as they are? And to make sure, that would suffice equally a seal? I was about likely going to put foam in that cavity anyway or I considered doing just the 2" + half a batt.

As I said, cut out the flared edges so that whatever you put in there tin lay flat.

Yous don't need a seal if you're going to fill the cavity with two pieces of rigid foam insulation. Think well-nigh this. At that place were holes in the celotex since the firm was built. At that place was no "seal". You don't demand a seal. We're suggesting construction agglutinative in case y'all decide to patch over the holes get-go with celotex. The celotex patch would crave some adhesive and a few screws to retain it. If you did that, you would exist installing batt insulation afterwards or spray foam insulation installed past professionals.

We've got three products in play in this thread that can be described as cream. If you have any more questions you need to make articulate what yous are referring to because the give-and-take "foam" can be interpreted several ways in your postal service quoted above.

1) Rigid foam insulation.
ii) Spray foam from a can. (Don't utilise this)
3) Spray cream insulation installed past professionals.

November 27, 2001

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• #11

As I said, cut out the flared edges and then that whatever you put in there can lay flat.

I call up the reason why I was a chip unsure is because if the patch piece is cut to the same size as the part that we cutting out, there'due south nothing for it to lay against every bit there'south a slight gap and so the brick. Essentially, I'm failing to visualize how exactly this piece is held in there.

However, if I tin just put up a foam sheet and not worry virtually patching it with the same fabric, then we tin can but save ourselves the headache.

Although, out of curiosity, in that location'due south that very small section right side by side to it. Should there exist anything in there? I know they utilize depression-expansion spray foam in the area between window frames and the rough-in. Would something like that be sufficient in at that place, or is the expanse and then modest that it doesn't matter? I wasn't originally planning on messing with all of this insulation ( my chore is only to remove the drywall prior to the contractors putting the new stuff up ), merely in one case I saw the state of it, I couldn't ignore it. In some places, the builders never cut the batts to lucifer the non-standard width, so they only shoved information technology in there, which I read hurts the r-value.

Jun xix, 2000

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• #12

I think the reason why I was a flake unsure is because if the patch piece is cut to the same size every bit the part that we cutting out, there's naught for it to lay confronting equally in that location'due south a slight gap and then the brick. Essentially, I'yard failing to visualize how exactly this piece is held in there.

I said in post #4 that yous need to cutting the patches oversize. They volition so lap over the hole and that lapped expanse is where you can put some agglutinative and a few screws. Screws won't concord very well in celotex and then only apply a few and rely on the construction adhesive to keep it in place over the long haul.

Or, just used rigid foam insulation as you said.

You're thinking about this far as well much. This own't rocket science and you're concerning yourself with stuff that in the thou scheme of things means goose egg. You had three holes in that stud cavity that led to unconditioned space and you're worrying most a gap that might price you $0.06 in total heating costs over the side by side 5 years.

All-time of luck to you.

boomerang out.

November 27, 2001

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• #xiii

I said in post #4 that you need to cut the patches oversize.

Ah, yes... distressing. I'm mixing a few different suggestions in my caput, and that made me think about cutting it to the exact size.

You're thinking about this far also much. This ain't rocket scientific discipline and you're concerning yourself with stuff that in the g scheme of things ways nothing. You had three holes in that stud cavity that led to unconditioned space and you're worrying nigh a gap that might toll you $0.06 in total heating costs over the next five years.

I asked considering I've already got low-expansion spray foam for use around my window and sliding glass door (information technology currently just has some torn-upward pieces of insulation stuffed in the gaps), and I figure that a single window and the door wouldn't use up all the foam, and then I might as well not waste matter it. However, I'd rather not practise something if it's "not acceptable practice" or something like that.

Oh, and to annotation, there was never any insulation in that cavity that had the holes, and then it was nigh definitely an unconditioned space. It makes me cringe a little bit when thinking that I however need to open up a bit more of the wall going over toward the fireplace. That part has the ugly, dated woods paneling, and I'm getting it replaced with drywall. However, since the function in the photo was where the wood paneling began, I'1000 wondering what other fun, uninsulated things I'll stumble across.

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Source: https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/what-is-this-and-how-do-i-fix-it.2488234/

Posted by: moorewitherrom.blogspot.com

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